Thursday, November 18.
I learned something from the mountains today. Lacey, Austin, and I went on a walk for some fresh air before dinner, up a trail to the very nice, garden-laden hospital and then around to a cool river bed and some great views. Meanwhile, fog was hogging the mountains so tightly that we could pretty much just see some dark outlines here and there. What I realized was that the mountains are always there, simply being, no matter what. Clouds are of no matter to them. They could be entirely covered up, but never feel shafted or down-laden. Shrouded in whiteness, but just as powerful, just as steadfast, just as beautiful.
On Friday, the 19th, we finally made it back to Kathmandu on a huge, chartered helicopter (driven, by the way, by none other than the man who lifted Back Weathers off of the Khumbu glacier on Everest). It was crazy, surreal, and so exciting all at once, and it is so nice to be finally be back here and clean.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Catch-up: November 6-17
That was the last up-to-date entry I wrote, but here's the catch up I did toward the end of the trek:
Sunday morning, November 7. Started up the hill after breakfast. After getting up past the bazaar, we walked most of the first half in inspired silence. It was amazing. The second half of the hike was a real challenge. After a good downhill in which we lost about 1000 feet, we hiked steeply uphill, gaining around 2000 feet, for the last hour or two into Tengboche at 12,700 feet or 3867 meters, where we collapsed in the dining room of the lodge. After a wonderful church service on a ridge in the last of the sun, we played some cards at the bakery with expensive but less than delicious apple pie and chocolate croissants, and then Lacey and I napped until dinner, after which commenced a night of often-interrupted night of sleep.
Monday morning, November 8. Before breakfast, we went to the morning prayers at the huge Tengboche monastery--which was rebuilt with the help of Sir Edmund Hillary after an earthquake in 1934 and a fire in 1989. Afterward, we began the hike to Dingboche, but after crossing a bridge and getting partway up a big hill, Babu took Tim, David and I, who weren't doing so hot, back down to join Mike, Brett, and Mariah at the lodge.
Tuesday morning, November 9. Babu, David, and Tim headed back to meet the group while Mariah, Brett, Mike and I hung around the lodge for the morning before heading back down to Namche at noon. It had been a very tough night, to say the least, and the hike back was also very challenging. After that steep, steep, downhill that seemed to last forever, it was half that much up again, and then, as soon as we could see the stupa that meant we were getting close, it kept being one contour further than we expected.
At last, we made it to Namche, and spent the night in the charming Namaste Lodge--a locally-owned place that, unfortunately, couldn't hold the whole group, before waiting for the others at the Nest (the bigger lodge we had stayed in on our way up). It turned out that the rest of the group didn't make it to our final destination at Kala Pathar either, and turned back after reaching Dingboche. They consoled us by agreeing that the best views had been at Tengboche, where the mountains were incredibly close--enough so that we had to crane our necks upward to see them out of the windows in our rooms.
We left Namche on Saturday morning. In my last bout of helplessness, dear Babu carried his pack within mine, and I made it to the teahouse in Phakding without too much trouble.
On Sunday morning I was finally feeling better, and we made the pleasant two or so hour hike up to Lukla in the clouds, but with a clear view of the rolling blue river below us. I managed with my own pack well--not quite up to my usual ripe speed, but hiking pretty quickly.
Wednesday, November 17. Yes, we were meant to fly out on Monday. The lesson on accepting change continues here in Lukla, where we read, play cards, sleep, eat, read some more, play more cards, and so on. Seeing as we have classwork to finish up back in Kathmandu, we're crossing our fingers for a chopper tomorrow if the clouds persist (helicopters can fly when planes can't, and on Tuesday, the only clear day, only so many planes could get in and out and we were not at the top of of the list).
Sunday morning, November 7. Started up the hill after breakfast. After getting up past the bazaar, we walked most of the first half in inspired silence. It was amazing. The second half of the hike was a real challenge. After a good downhill in which we lost about 1000 feet, we hiked steeply uphill, gaining around 2000 feet, for the last hour or two into Tengboche at 12,700 feet or 3867 meters, where we collapsed in the dining room of the lodge. After a wonderful church service on a ridge in the last of the sun, we played some cards at the bakery with expensive but less than delicious apple pie and chocolate croissants, and then Lacey and I napped until dinner, after which commenced a night of often-interrupted night of sleep.
Monday morning, November 8. Before breakfast, we went to the morning prayers at the huge Tengboche monastery--which was rebuilt with the help of Sir Edmund Hillary after an earthquake in 1934 and a fire in 1989. Afterward, we began the hike to Dingboche, but after crossing a bridge and getting partway up a big hill, Babu took Tim, David and I, who weren't doing so hot, back down to join Mike, Brett, and Mariah at the lodge.
Tuesday morning, November 9. Babu, David, and Tim headed back to meet the group while Mariah, Brett, Mike and I hung around the lodge for the morning before heading back down to Namche at noon. It had been a very tough night, to say the least, and the hike back was also very challenging. After that steep, steep, downhill that seemed to last forever, it was half that much up again, and then, as soon as we could see the stupa that meant we were getting close, it kept being one contour further than we expected.
At last, we made it to Namche, and spent the night in the charming Namaste Lodge--a locally-owned place that, unfortunately, couldn't hold the whole group, before waiting for the others at the Nest (the bigger lodge we had stayed in on our way up). It turned out that the rest of the group didn't make it to our final destination at Kala Pathar either, and turned back after reaching Dingboche. They consoled us by agreeing that the best views had been at Tengboche, where the mountains were incredibly close--enough so that we had to crane our necks upward to see them out of the windows in our rooms.
We left Namche on Saturday morning. In my last bout of helplessness, dear Babu carried his pack within mine, and I made it to the teahouse in Phakding without too much trouble.
On Sunday morning I was finally feeling better, and we made the pleasant two or so hour hike up to Lukla in the clouds, but with a clear view of the rolling blue river below us. I managed with my own pack well--not quite up to my usual ripe speed, but hiking pretty quickly.
Wednesday, November 17. Yes, we were meant to fly out on Monday. The lesson on accepting change continues here in Lukla, where we read, play cards, sleep, eat, read some more, play more cards, and so on. Seeing as we have classwork to finish up back in Kathmandu, we're crossing our fingers for a chopper tomorrow if the clouds persist (helicopters can fly when planes can't, and on Tuesday, the only clear day, only so many planes could get in and out and we were not at the top of of the list).
First days of our trek in the Solukhumbu region
Saturday, November 6.
After flying into Lukla from Kathmandu on two small planes, we set out for Phakding, where we spent our first night. Unlike in the Jumla region where we did our first trek, the Everest region is filled with tourists from around the world, and instead of tenting and being served meals by a kitchen crew, we just have porters carrying some of our stuff, and we spend nights and meals in teahouses--some of which are basically hotels, some of which are more like bed and breakfasts. From Phakding, we hiked to Namche bazaar, where we spent a day of acclimatization, and our first views of Everest. Here's my journal entry from Namche:
I sit in my sleeping bag, cold in my cotton short-sleeves, on a comfortable foam mattress in Namche, thinking back to the tents on our last trek and glad for the accommodations, though resentful of the pervasive tourism and the traffic on the trails. It is Diwali--the Hindu festival of lights, celebrated even here, where most are Tibetan buddhists. Loud, festive music and dancing sound through the window where our socks and underwear failed to dry in this morning's sun.
It's been a long day, and I'm ready for bed. After tea this morning, we went on an easy hike up to the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park headquarters. From the flat, open area surrounded by young firs and pines, we took pictures of the breathtaking panorama all around us. We saw Everest, the Lhotse wall, Ama Dablam, and others.
We came back down for breakfast and then set out again for a good couple hours' acclimatization hike. On the way up, air came harder and we walked as a group to Babu's "bistaraai, bistaraai" (slowly, slowly; Babu was one of our two sherpa leaders). At every rest there were amazing views, and after reaching a high point where all the cameras came out, we descended to Khumjung for lunch. First though, we had hot lemon and popcorn and then walked up through the village to see Kanchi's house (that's our other sherpa) and her wrinkled, happy Ama (mother), followed by the monastery wherein lies the yeti skull--slightly unimpressive, but convincing enough, I thought.
Dinner was delicious tonight. After so-so garlic soup, we had Swiss rosti--enormous and perfectly spiced potato latkes topped with two fried eggs each. It was followed by several riotous rounds of five person hearts before bed.
In the morning, we venture back to 12,000 feet (Namche is at about 11,200), for which we're told our bodies are already preparing, thanks to today's visit to Khumjung.
After flying into Lukla from Kathmandu on two small planes, we set out for Phakding, where we spent our first night. Unlike in the Jumla region where we did our first trek, the Everest region is filled with tourists from around the world, and instead of tenting and being served meals by a kitchen crew, we just have porters carrying some of our stuff, and we spend nights and meals in teahouses--some of which are basically hotels, some of which are more like bed and breakfasts. From Phakding, we hiked to Namche bazaar, where we spent a day of acclimatization, and our first views of Everest. Here's my journal entry from Namche:
I sit in my sleeping bag, cold in my cotton short-sleeves, on a comfortable foam mattress in Namche, thinking back to the tents on our last trek and glad for the accommodations, though resentful of the pervasive tourism and the traffic on the trails. It is Diwali--the Hindu festival of lights, celebrated even here, where most are Tibetan buddhists. Loud, festive music and dancing sound through the window where our socks and underwear failed to dry in this morning's sun.
It's been a long day, and I'm ready for bed. After tea this morning, we went on an easy hike up to the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park headquarters. From the flat, open area surrounded by young firs and pines, we took pictures of the breathtaking panorama all around us. We saw Everest, the Lhotse wall, Ama Dablam, and others.
We came back down for breakfast and then set out again for a good couple hours' acclimatization hike. On the way up, air came harder and we walked as a group to Babu's "bistaraai, bistaraai" (slowly, slowly; Babu was one of our two sherpa leaders). At every rest there were amazing views, and after reaching a high point where all the cameras came out, we descended to Khumjung for lunch. First though, we had hot lemon and popcorn and then walked up through the village to see Kanchi's house (that's our other sherpa) and her wrinkled, happy Ama (mother), followed by the monastery wherein lies the yeti skull--slightly unimpressive, but convincing enough, I thought.
Dinner was delicious tonight. After so-so garlic soup, we had Swiss rosti--enormous and perfectly spiced potato latkes topped with two fried eggs each. It was followed by several riotous rounds of five person hearts before bed.
In the morning, we venture back to 12,000 feet (Namche is at about 11,200), for which we're told our bodies are already preparing, thanks to today's visit to Khumjung.
Inspiration from the Snow Leopard
Thursday, November 4th.
The Snow Leopard, recommended to me over the summer, purchased by Jeff at Pilgrims on one of our first trips to Thamel, and now living in my pack until I pass it on to the next in line, has me captivated. An interesting quote:
"The mystical perception (which is only 'mystical' if reality is limited to what can be measured by the intellect and senses) is remarkably consistent in all ages and all places, East and West, a point that has not been ignored by modern science. The physicist seeks to understand reality, while the mystic is trained to experience it directly."
The Snow Leopard, recommended to me over the summer, purchased by Jeff at Pilgrims on one of our first trips to Thamel, and now living in my pack until I pass it on to the next in line, has me captivated. An interesting quote:
"The mystical perception (which is only 'mystical' if reality is limited to what can be measured by the intellect and senses) is remarkably consistent in all ages and all places, East and West, a point that has not been ignored by modern science. The physicist seeks to understand reality, while the mystic is trained to experience it directly."
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Halloween in the jungle! October 31st-November 2nd
Sunday, October 31st.
After being boated across the river in incredible dug-out canoes this morning (I'm gonna make one of those some day...), we were guided through the jungle for about 14 miles, or 8-ish hours. We saw no tigers, much to our disappointment, but we did traverse their paths and see their might paw prints! We also saw lots of deers, two different kinds of monkeys--jumping, chatting, and fight in the treetops--, and lots of birds. We then had dinner in costume, followed by church and bed. Costumes included post-crash paraglider, rhino bait (bright colors up the wazoo), and Bob Marley (David through Nepali eyes).
Monday, November 1st.
Another full day in the jungle.
After breakfast, we rode in the backs of two safari trucks to elephant-riding Central. Our bideshi (foreigner) parade proceeded on the backs of five lady elephants and one male. It was so much fun. Very bumpy, but much more enjoyable than a bus ride. Our elephant's name was Pan Kali. She's twenty-five years old (elephants can live to around seventy), and ate everything in site throughout our walk, undeterred by the harsh smacks of her rider that made us cringe every time. Despite this, she was a very skilled escort, especially at crossing rivers and descending and ascending steep, muddy terrain, which succeeded in hurtling us forwards or backwards depending on our position. It was fascinating seeing the jungle atop this incredible creature. Pan Kali had beautiful, papery, pink and grey-freckled ears and amazingly tough skin. Our driver was a stern, older man, who, when we questioned and talked to him in Nepali, rarely responded with more than a nod or a grunt. After dismounting the dear elephants, we went a conservation center where we heard an interesting presentation on the park. The nearby community forest is one of Nepal's richest, thanks to local tourism, and local buffer zone villages receive 50% of the park's revenue, amounting to around 90,000 USD annually (impressive). It's obviously a successful model here in the tourist-rich terai.
After lunch, we all boarded a single dug-out canoe with Kewal and Lama, who said he'd been in the same boat with something like 48 Chinese tourists. Hard to believe, considering how much water the 25 of us caused it to displace. The river was remarkably peaceful, and we saw several crocs both in and out of the water. Afterwards, we went on a short nature walk and then through an informational exhibit at the elephant breeding center and saw some of the elephants chained under large, open shelters. They were fascinating to observe, but the information we read about the training process for the magnificent captive was very sobering, and turned at least some of our joy into sorrow. It's an interesting topic--the balance between wildlife conservation and human livelihoods.
After dinner on Monday, we sat on benches on the lodge's central lawn and saw a stick dance presentation by a group of Tharu students. It was one of the coolest things I've seen. They all wore white outfits with red sashes, and danced to the beat of a large, two-toned drum. After several dances both with and without sticks (one of which featured a crazily spinning girl, and one of which was done by a solo guy with fire on either end of one of the longer sticks), we got to follow their lead in a big dance circle. It was so much to move around like that! It hearkened back to night-time dancing on the trek.
Tuesday, November 2nd.
Early this morning, a few of us got up for a bird walk with Lama and Kewal. It was very foggy, but we saw some kingfishers, orioles, and bullbulls, and heard a lot more. After breakfast, we embarked on our final bus ride as a group. After four or five hours of driving and a couple of sitting in traffic once we got over the ridge into the urban valley, we were back in the smog and happy bustle of Kathmandu. We have two nights and one full day here before flying to Lukla on Thursday morning to begin our trek in the Sagarmatha National Park (Everest, here we come!!). We will be doing research in villages like we did in the Jumla region, but this time we're on our own, as most people will speak some English. And then it's back here to the Kathmandu Guest House to write our papers and explore the city.
Over and out.
After being boated across the river in incredible dug-out canoes this morning (I'm gonna make one of those some day...), we were guided through the jungle for about 14 miles, or 8-ish hours. We saw no tigers, much to our disappointment, but we did traverse their paths and see their might paw prints! We also saw lots of deers, two different kinds of monkeys--jumping, chatting, and fight in the treetops--, and lots of birds. We then had dinner in costume, followed by church and bed. Costumes included post-crash paraglider, rhino bait (bright colors up the wazoo), and Bob Marley (David through Nepali eyes).
Monday, November 1st.
Another full day in the jungle.
After breakfast, we rode in the backs of two safari trucks to elephant-riding Central. Our bideshi (foreigner) parade proceeded on the backs of five lady elephants and one male. It was so much fun. Very bumpy, but much more enjoyable than a bus ride. Our elephant's name was Pan Kali. She's twenty-five years old (elephants can live to around seventy), and ate everything in site throughout our walk, undeterred by the harsh smacks of her rider that made us cringe every time. Despite this, she was a very skilled escort, especially at crossing rivers and descending and ascending steep, muddy terrain, which succeeded in hurtling us forwards or backwards depending on our position. It was fascinating seeing the jungle atop this incredible creature. Pan Kali had beautiful, papery, pink and grey-freckled ears and amazingly tough skin. Our driver was a stern, older man, who, when we questioned and talked to him in Nepali, rarely responded with more than a nod or a grunt. After dismounting the dear elephants, we went a conservation center where we heard an interesting presentation on the park. The nearby community forest is one of Nepal's richest, thanks to local tourism, and local buffer zone villages receive 50% of the park's revenue, amounting to around 90,000 USD annually (impressive). It's obviously a successful model here in the tourist-rich terai.
After lunch, we all boarded a single dug-out canoe with Kewal and Lama, who said he'd been in the same boat with something like 48 Chinese tourists. Hard to believe, considering how much water the 25 of us caused it to displace. The river was remarkably peaceful, and we saw several crocs both in and out of the water. Afterwards, we went on a short nature walk and then through an informational exhibit at the elephant breeding center and saw some of the elephants chained under large, open shelters. They were fascinating to observe, but the information we read about the training process for the magnificent captive was very sobering, and turned at least some of our joy into sorrow. It's an interesting topic--the balance between wildlife conservation and human livelihoods.
After dinner on Monday, we sat on benches on the lodge's central lawn and saw a stick dance presentation by a group of Tharu students. It was one of the coolest things I've seen. They all wore white outfits with red sashes, and danced to the beat of a large, two-toned drum. After several dances both with and without sticks (one of which featured a crazily spinning girl, and one of which was done by a solo guy with fire on either end of one of the longer sticks), we got to follow their lead in a big dance circle. It was so much to move around like that! It hearkened back to night-time dancing on the trek.
Tuesday, November 2nd.
Early this morning, a few of us got up for a bird walk with Lama and Kewal. It was very foggy, but we saw some kingfishers, orioles, and bullbulls, and heard a lot more. After breakfast, we embarked on our final bus ride as a group. After four or five hours of driving and a couple of sitting in traffic once we got over the ridge into the urban valley, we were back in the smog and happy bustle of Kathmandu. We have two nights and one full day here before flying to Lukla on Thursday morning to begin our trek in the Sagarmatha National Park (Everest, here we come!!). We will be doing research in villages like we did in the Jumla region, but this time we're on our own, as most people will speak some English. And then it's back here to the Kathmandu Guest House to write our papers and explore the city.
Over and out.
A week of schoolwork, kind of
Saturday, October 30th.
The rest of our time in Pokhara was really wonderful. We put together a 50 or so paged report and presentation on our research from the trek, building it up day by day, and then presented our slide show to the three sisters and others on Friday afternoon. We then had our last dinner with them all at the big house.
In our free time each day throughout the week, we would wander around the lake and bazaar and find dinner. We also found a jazz bar with really good pizza, a great atmosphere, and an unpredictable performance schedule. We eventually did get to see some live music, but what they had called "a band" the night before ended up being three guys they'd thrown together at the last minute. They were good though, so we stayed.
Just yesterday, we got a chance to talk with the sisters--especially Lucky, the oldest one who was first to become interested in starting an organization--after our presentation. I'm thinking I'd really like to come back and do some work with them.
Pokhara is such a beautiful place and it was sad to leave, but before we knew it, we landed in the jungle.
After a four hour bus ride with our favorite drivers, we arrived in the Chitwan (Heart of the jungle) National Park--home to some of the last Great One-Horned Rhinos, as well as Asian elephants, Bengal tigers, leopards, crocodiles, river dolphins, all sorts of birds, and more.
Our hotel is so great. It's called the Lama Lodge, and it consists of a semi-circle of cute little bungalows with two rooms each, surrounding a central lawn with lots of trees and a rope hammock. It really felt like a jungle dwelling.
On Saturday, once we got here, Lama and Kewal, one of his employees and a fellow avid bird and other wildlife watcher, took us on a walk to traditional Tharu (indigenous) village, but we were distracted by a rhino siting. We saw an enormous male and a young female, within just a few meters! There were a bunch of other people there who'd heard about the rhinos too, and Lama kept directing us out of the line of potential attack whenever the creatures moved. Eventually, they made their way into the river and we were safe. We sat on the bank and watched them relax in the water until the sun started to set, at which point we saw our first of three consecutive incredible jungle sunsets. The male rhino was particularly fascinating. So massive and so densely wrinkled! (Here follows a revision of an old camp song. Newfounders: you know what I mean-forget prunes.)
The rest of our time in Pokhara was really wonderful. We put together a 50 or so paged report and presentation on our research from the trek, building it up day by day, and then presented our slide show to the three sisters and others on Friday afternoon. We then had our last dinner with them all at the big house.
In our free time each day throughout the week, we would wander around the lake and bazaar and find dinner. We also found a jazz bar with really good pizza, a great atmosphere, and an unpredictable performance schedule. We eventually did get to see some live music, but what they had called "a band" the night before ended up being three guys they'd thrown together at the last minute. They were good though, so we stayed.
Just yesterday, we got a chance to talk with the sisters--especially Lucky, the oldest one who was first to become interested in starting an organization--after our presentation. I'm thinking I'd really like to come back and do some work with them.
Pokhara is such a beautiful place and it was sad to leave, but before we knew it, we landed in the jungle.
After a four hour bus ride with our favorite drivers, we arrived in the Chitwan (Heart of the jungle) National Park--home to some of the last Great One-Horned Rhinos, as well as Asian elephants, Bengal tigers, leopards, crocodiles, river dolphins, all sorts of birds, and more.
Our hotel is so great. It's called the Lama Lodge, and it consists of a semi-circle of cute little bungalows with two rooms each, surrounding a central lawn with lots of trees and a rope hammock. It really felt like a jungle dwelling.
On Saturday, once we got here, Lama and Kewal, one of his employees and a fellow avid bird and other wildlife watcher, took us on a walk to traditional Tharu (indigenous) village, but we were distracted by a rhino siting. We saw an enormous male and a young female, within just a few meters! There were a bunch of other people there who'd heard about the rhinos too, and Lama kept directing us out of the line of potential attack whenever the creatures moved. Eventually, they made their way into the river and we were safe. We sat on the bank and watched them relax in the water until the sun started to set, at which point we saw our first of three consecutive incredible jungle sunsets. The male rhino was particularly fascinating. So massive and so densely wrinkled! (Here follows a revision of an old camp song. Newfounders: you know what I mean-forget prunes.)
Jumla to Pokhara
Tuesday, October 26.
It's so nice to be back in Pokhara. It's all too surreal though. The trek seems like such a far away and other experience now, but we were in it just a couple of days ago.
After a night in two Jumla guest houses so our tents could be cleaned out, only one flight could get out through the storm clouds crowding the sky, so after a morning of waiting around at the airport and playing lots of card games under the watchful eyes of police and army officials (cards are technically illegal in Nepal, but as long as you're not gambling, they tend not to care), we had a lunch of chow chow, and then seven us plus Mike, Steph, our research assistants, and three of the trekking staffers, saw the others off at around 4 and then headed back to the closer of the two guest houses--Newari Lodging and Fooding (I think I've actually starting replacing "eating" with "fooding" in my conversation...oh dear). We had a delicious dinner of--guess what--more chow chow and got to know the chef a little. He is from Kathmandu, learned to cook in India where he lived for several years, and then was hired at the guest house in Jumla by a family friend.
The next morning, it was off to two Hindu temples across the street, where each of us got double tikkas from their respective gurus, and then back to the airport to hurry and and wait some more. Talk about not taking things for granted and letting it be: In rural Nepal, you buy a plane ticket and you think that means you'll be getting to your destination when and how you want to. But no. If someone doesn't feel like getting up on time, you wait. If a storm comes in or they decide that someone else should get to fly before you when your flight is delayed for 24 hours or so, there simply isn't anything you can do about it. And in any case, it's pretty much impossible to know when you'll actually get to where you want to go. And thus, number who knows what: you'd best be flexible.
So it was that we waited for two other flights to go out on Saturday, had our third helpings of chow chow, and made it to Nepalgunj in time for showers and dinners. We had decided to fit the whole 14 hour bus ride into one day in order to arrive in Pokhara at a decent hour, so we had a nice relaxing nice in the posh hotel with western toilets, good water pressure (not that the heat wasn't shotty), delicious garlic naan in the funny, out of place dining hall where one of the waiters just couldn't stand to let a song play all the way through, an ice cream dessert, and HBO and Nat. Geo. on the TV.
It was great to see the rest of the group, but it was always nice being with a smaller bunch for a while. Such a different dynamic, and more coherence, I think. The first flight had flown straight into the storm, and what should have been 30 minutes turned into 50, thanks to intense turbulence throughout. We had it good on the flight front. It had snowed on the peaks surrounding the Jumla bazaar the night before we left, so we flew over snow-capped ridges and basked in the goodness.
Yesterday, Monday, we had a free day before we started work on our reports this morning. A few of us dropped laundry off and did a little gift shopping before getting delicious coffees and freshly baked goods at the Perky Bean, and then went across the street to the Olive Cafe for a light lunch and free wi-fi. It was so great just sitting there and reflecting.
It's so nice to be back in Pokhara. It's all too surreal though. The trek seems like such a far away and other experience now, but we were in it just a couple of days ago.
After a night in two Jumla guest houses so our tents could be cleaned out, only one flight could get out through the storm clouds crowding the sky, so after a morning of waiting around at the airport and playing lots of card games under the watchful eyes of police and army officials (cards are technically illegal in Nepal, but as long as you're not gambling, they tend not to care), we had a lunch of chow chow, and then seven us plus Mike, Steph, our research assistants, and three of the trekking staffers, saw the others off at around 4 and then headed back to the closer of the two guest houses--Newari Lodging and Fooding (I think I've actually starting replacing "eating" with "fooding" in my conversation...oh dear). We had a delicious dinner of--guess what--more chow chow and got to know the chef a little. He is from Kathmandu, learned to cook in India where he lived for several years, and then was hired at the guest house in Jumla by a family friend.
The next morning, it was off to two Hindu temples across the street, where each of us got double tikkas from their respective gurus, and then back to the airport to hurry and and wait some more. Talk about not taking things for granted and letting it be: In rural Nepal, you buy a plane ticket and you think that means you'll be getting to your destination when and how you want to. But no. If someone doesn't feel like getting up on time, you wait. If a storm comes in or they decide that someone else should get to fly before you when your flight is delayed for 24 hours or so, there simply isn't anything you can do about it. And in any case, it's pretty much impossible to know when you'll actually get to where you want to go. And thus, number who knows what: you'd best be flexible.
So it was that we waited for two other flights to go out on Saturday, had our third helpings of chow chow, and made it to Nepalgunj in time for showers and dinners. We had decided to fit the whole 14 hour bus ride into one day in order to arrive in Pokhara at a decent hour, so we had a nice relaxing nice in the posh hotel with western toilets, good water pressure (not that the heat wasn't shotty), delicious garlic naan in the funny, out of place dining hall where one of the waiters just couldn't stand to let a song play all the way through, an ice cream dessert, and HBO and Nat. Geo. on the TV.
It was great to see the rest of the group, but it was always nice being with a smaller bunch for a while. Such a different dynamic, and more coherence, I think. The first flight had flown straight into the storm, and what should have been 30 minutes turned into 50, thanks to intense turbulence throughout. We had it good on the flight front. It had snowed on the peaks surrounding the Jumla bazaar the night before we left, so we flew over snow-capped ridges and basked in the goodness.
Yesterday, Monday, we had a free day before we started work on our reports this morning. A few of us dropped laundry off and did a little gift shopping before getting delicious coffees and freshly baked goods at the Perky Bean, and then went across the street to the Olive Cafe for a light lunch and free wi-fi. It was so great just sitting there and reflecting.
Back to Jumla
Back to the bustling metropolis of Jumla. It feels like coming home. I can't believe the trek is over...it went by so fast. Eleven days of life on the trail and it starts to feel normal.
The sun is shining here, the wind is cold, and a crowd of clouds hug the ridge across the valley.
The sun is shining here, the wind is cold, and a crowd of clouds hug the ridge across the valley.
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