First days of our trek in the Solukhumbu region

Saturday, November 6.
After flying into Lukla from Kathmandu on two small planes, we set out for Phakding, where we spent our first night. Unlike in the Jumla region where we did our first trek, the Everest region is filled with tourists from around the world, and instead of tenting and being served meals by a kitchen crew, we just have porters carrying some of our stuff, and we spend nights and meals in teahouses--some of which are basically hotels, some of which are more like bed and breakfasts. From Phakding, we hiked to Namche bazaar, where we spent a day of acclimatization, and our first views of Everest. Here's my journal entry from Namche:
I sit in my sleeping bag, cold in my cotton short-sleeves, on a comfortable foam mattress in Namche, thinking back to the tents on our last trek and glad for the accommodations, though resentful of the pervasive tourism and the traffic on the trails. It is Diwali--the Hindu festival of lights, celebrated even here, where most are Tibetan buddhists. Loud, festive music and dancing sound through the window where our socks and underwear failed to dry in this morning's sun.
It's been a long day, and I'm ready for bed. After tea this morning, we went on an easy hike up to the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park headquarters. From the flat, open area surrounded by young firs and pines, we took pictures of the breathtaking panorama all around us. We saw Everest, the Lhotse wall, Ama Dablam, and others.
We came back down for breakfast and then set out again for a good couple hours' acclimatization hike. On the way up, air came harder and we walked as a group to Babu's "bistaraai, bistaraai" (slowly, slowly; Babu was one of our two sherpa leaders). At every rest there were amazing views, and after reaching a high point where all the cameras came out, we descended to Khumjung for lunch. First though, we had hot lemon and popcorn and then walked up through the village to see Kanchi's house (that's our other sherpa) and her wrinkled, happy Ama (mother), followed by the monastery wherein lies the yeti skull--slightly unimpressive, but convincing enough, I thought.
Dinner was delicious tonight. After so-so garlic soup, we had Swiss rosti--enormous and perfectly spiced potato latkes topped with two fried eggs each. It was followed by several riotous rounds of five person hearts before bed.
In the morning, we venture back to 12,000 feet (Namche is at about 11,200), for which we're told our bodies are already preparing, thanks to today's visit to Khumjung.