Leaving Kathmandu

Monday, November 22.
Yesterday, our last in Kathmandu, was an amazing day. It clinched the deal on my return: There are endless amounts of exploring left to be done here. After our last group church service, Ana, Amelia, David and I hailed a taxi to Bhoudhanath—the famous Bhudda stupa where most of the group went while we were in Kirtipur, but to which a few of us couldn't make it. It was wonderful. We sat up on the roof of Flavor's cafe with a straight-on view of the stupa as the afternoon light began to change. From up above, we could see the women kneeling on wooden mats inside the prayer wheel-filled wall surrounding the stupa and running their hands along the length of the wood, presumably rubbing off and thereby distributing the prayers on the flags stacked beneath their pious hands. We wondered if Kanchi, our sherpa who lives nearby, does that. (I wouldn't be surprised if she does.) When we came out after eating, there was a sea of people circumambulating for evening prayers. I walked around taking pictures and soaking it up and then got a little bit of last minute shopping done.
After taxiing back to the guest house, David led Amelia and I through the streets, past the bead bazaar, to New Road—one of the biggest commercial streets in Kathmandu, filled with shops selling jewelry, cell phones, clothing, and the like. Though rushed, it was an unforgettable walk. Courtyards with small, Newari prayer pagodas, joyful drumming and singing circles under the full moon, string upon string of beautifully-colored glass beads, men and women selling vegetables from tarps on the side of the road. I left feeling so sad that I didn't have more time to explore, and so excited to come back someday.
We made it back to the guest house just in time to say goodbye to everyone. Mike, Lacey, and Austin had bought marigold garlands for those who were leaving, so they left with a final blessing. After saying goodbye, Lacey, Heather, Austin, and I had a delicious and ridiculously fun last dinner at Third Eye, the nice Indian restaurant that had been recommended to us. We spoke Nepali with the two waiters up on the terrace, one of which was so cold that he put this neck warmer thing over his ears and stood by a little fire they had.
We also made friends with some army guys on security at the airport the next morning (Monday), after sharing three twin beds in room 510 and and getting a 6:00 taxi in the morning. It didn't speed the good ol' process up. Our flight had been changed to 5 hours later without us knowing, and we and an Israeli guy were the only ones to show up unnecessarily hat 6:30 in the morning. Good thing we know how to wait!